Alphonso

WOMEN OF AGRA WALK

While contemplating the grand stage of Mughal rule in India, by and large it is dominated by male protagonists who are multi-dimensional. But there are some female characters too who have left their imprint on one of the most colourful periods of Indian history. Whether it was Khanzada Begum, Mumtaz Mahal, Nur Jahan, Jahanara Begum, Hamida Banu, Marayam al-Zamani these all independently wealthy, Mughal women have led fascinating lives, each establishing her name in history in her own right. They were also adept at commissioning and designing and building monuments, gardens, caravanserais, mosques, stepwells and tombs as well.

The tour also serves as a reflection on how gender roles influenced architecture and design in this period.

  • Itmad-ud-Daulah – a stunning forerunner for the Taj Mahal in terms of design and aesthetics
  • An up-close introduction to Mughal architecture and paintings
  • First-hand interactions with contemporary women champions of Agra

An alternative history walk to explore the city from the perspective of iconic Mughal women and lesser-known champions - from the past and present. The women of the Mughal dynasty have been a force to be reckoned with, shaping the politics and culture of the times in powerful ways. Khanzada Begum for example, the elder sister of the Emperor Babur, the founder of the Mughal Empire, was one of the most powerful women of the times; she was also known as the Padshah Begum of Hindustan.

The Empress Nur Jehan, the wife of Jehangir, the fourth Mughal emperor who ruled from 1605–1627, is believed to be the actual power behind the throne for over a decade. More so when his grip over his empire appeared to be loosening due to growing ill health and his addiction to opium, booze and distractions such as his love for hunting.

Nur Jehan’s level of empowerment as woman in Mughal times was unprecedented. She came to wield her prowess in matters of administration of the realm as also foreign affairs, trade, law and order etc. Her heightened sense of aesthetics left their mark on everything from art and architecture to fashion to jewellery and perfume.

The tomb she commissioned for her father Itmad-ud-Daulah (Lord of Treasure of the empire and later the wazir under Jahangir) has all the hallmarks of her artistic bent of mind. Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb is the first tomb in India built entirely in white marble and is fabled for the pietra dura (stone inlay) work, vegetal and floral decoration stucco and mosaic work and a stunning display of a variety of arabesques and abstract geometrical designs. In a way, on many counts it was a forerunner to Shajahan’s fabulous Taj Mahal, built for his beloved Mumtaz Mahal, another Empress who quietly wielded her own power. In fact, Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb is often referred to as the ‘Baby Taj’.

Another point of interest on the walk is Mariam’s Tomb, or the Tomb of Mariam-UZ-Zamani. Commissioned by Jehangir for his mother, Akbar’s favourite wife, the tomb lies in proximity to Akbar’s Tomb in Sikandra. She was also known as the Rajput princess Harkha Bai, the eldest daughter of Raja Bharmal of Amer. The tomb, positioned in the middle of a Mughal Garden, is remarked for its frescoes and floral carvings.  Like Itmad-ud-Daulah's Tomb, the mausoleum is of architectural importance in the category of Mughal sepulchral architecture without a dome. Learn about how Mariam and other begums and princesses of the Mughal empire have influenced Agra’s cultural heritage.

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