Diwali, the ‘Festival of Lights’ is pan-India’s most iconic celebration of a homecoming and triumph of good over evil. The interesting thing about Varanasi, the world’s oldest continuously inhabited city, is that, unlike in other parts of India, it enjoys two Diwalis! That should perk up the curiosity of any traveller visiting the city around this time.
Diwali, as we are familiar with is celebrated on the day of Amavasya, or the dark night or moonless night. It’s when the exiled Lord Rama returned home in triumph to Ayodhya after 14 years after killing the demon-king of Sri Lanka, Ravana. Accompanying Lord Rama on this joyful homecoming were his wife, Sita, and brother Lakshman.
On the other hand, Dev Diwali, also known as Kartik Purnima, is celebrated on a full moon night, 15 days after Diwali. Dev Diwali signifies the Diwali of Gods, because, according to the Hindu faith, it’s when all the gods pay a visit to Varanasi to bathe in the holy Ganga. It’s also known as Tripurotsav because on this day, Lord Shiva defeated the asura (demon) Tripurasura.
The explosion of spiritual delight and festive cheer will sweep you away as you witness the locals plunge into time-worn rituals and ceremonies that are specific to this grand festival.
Watch streams of pilgrims arrive with bundles of rice/lentils as donating food (Annadaan) is considered a merit-giving ritual and good for one’s karma. Another must do is the ritual purification ceremony of bathing in the Ganga, which not only rids one of past sins but also heralds the rejuvenation of devotees and prosperity in life.
From a beautifully decorated bajda, travelling slowly down the holy river take in the amazing sight of the 7km of the legendary ghats in a spectacular display of thousands upon thousands of handcrafted oil lamps illuminating the way of devotees to the waterfront. The Moon herself floods the waters with silvery rays banishing the darkness of the night.
That’s not all; apart from the extravagant display of the aartis the ghats come alive with many cultural programmes. Fireworks piercing the night sky add to the general air of festivities as they put the spotlight on many of the palatial buildings and vintage structures by the waterfront. Tuck into delicious Banarasi festival snacks on the boat, and then later join the locals enjoying the festive fare in the streets of Varanasi. The storyteller accompanying you will be happy to share many a story of Varanasi’s double Diwali and its importance to its festival calendar and why it’s so special for the locals.