This 16th century Mughal bastion has left its inimitable stamp on the global architectural landscape with that fabulous monument to eternal love – the Taj Mahal. While the Taj is one of the most enduring cultural contributions of the Mughals, their first capital has much else to offer visitors. Agra may have been a religious and commercial hub for over three centuries but it was the Mughals who converted it into a fabulous centre of power from where they shaped the fate of Hindustan. It was an emblem bristling with its importance of Mughal power and ambition in its early days (1526-1658) under Babur, Humayan, Akbar and Jehangir. Agra served as a vivid theatre for power, intrigue, love, piety, remorseless ambition and heartbreak. It very reluctantly gave up this status when Emperor Shahjehan decided to relocate his capital to Delhi with his new city of Shahjehanbad.

Located about 200 km from Delhi, Agra ruminates over its lost regal past, by the waters of the holy Yamuna River. When you go visiting the Taj at its riverside location you will also be reminded that Agra finds mention in the Indian epic the Mahabharata as Agrabana; it served as the headquarters of Sultan Sikandar Lodi in 1506.

Agra’s charms may be enjoyed by bike at dawn or by tonga at night under the stars; but there’s no getting away from its bewitching offerings which are a huge draw for history and culture buffs all year round. Exploring the city on foot or e-rickshaw is the fun way to discover its many fascinating aspects such as its plethora of monuments, gardens and bustling bazaars. One will recall that three Mughal-era structures are UNESCO World Heritage Sites—Taj Mahal, Agra Fort and Akbar’s nearby capital, Fatehpur Sikri, now in ruins. 

The narrow lanes of the old city take you past grand havelis of yesteryear, the ancient Kinari Bazaar, Lohar Gali and Rawat Para, famed for its spice shops. Special gems to discover are the library of Dara Shikoh, the Sufi son of emperor Shahjehan. A scholar of Persian, Urdu and Sanskri, Dara set up several libraries, including the one in Delhi. Dara’s palace is surprisingly still well preserved. At Kala Mahal stands the birthplace of Mirza Ghalib, court poet of Mughal Emperor Bahadurshah Zafar in Delhi.  Notable religious spots are the headquarters the Radhasoami faith, at Dayalbagh, Shiva shrine known as Mankameshwar temple, Emperor Shahjehan’s Jama Masjidand the Akbar Churc – Agra’s first Catholic Church of Agra built by the Jesuit fathers.

Agra’s colonial days’ heritage is also worth discovering at leisure. With the entrance of British in 1803 Agra’s skyline was changed with the mushrooming imperialistic architecture. It remained the seat of government for the province for the British until 1858, when Allahabad replaced it as the admin head. Some of the colonial heyday structures include, Havelock Memorial Church, Post Office, St. Mary's Church, Queen Empress Mary Library, Telegraph Office and St George's Cathedral and the plethora of bungalows in the Cantonment.

Agra’s crafting traditions are deeply embedded in the fabulous range of architectural gems scattered across the city. A monumental example of the artisan’s skills is amply evident in the Taj itself. Immerse yourself in the glory of the amazing parchinkari work or marble inlay work, which is inspired by the Italian tradition of pietra dura; unmissable too is the marble latticework and calligraphy inlay here. Some of the most superb stone work is to be found in the red sandstone work at Agra Fort.

Following the artisan trail brings us also to other astonishing skills of its craftsmen. It’s beautiful Persian zardozi brocade work, which traditionally catered to the royals and nobility even found a place in the walls of royal tents, wall hangings, scabbards and regalia for horses and elephants. Mirror work, a tradition imported from Iran in the 17th century by the Mughals earlier featured embroideries embedded with bits of mica and then glass. Agra also served as a Persian style carpet weaving hub. With Akbar ordering his soldiers to wear leather shoes a tradition was set for leather craft which is alive to this day; leather work, a tradition which dates to the time Akbar ordered all his soldiers to wear leather shoes); you can even witness craftsmen at work in these ancient traditions.