Traveling to Bharatpur to spend quality time in the lap of nature and thrilled by the delights of birding at the UNESCO-acclaimed Keoladeo Ghana National Park? How about checking out something special along the verdant trails en route to this well-trodden tourist attraction?

Though it has been around since the 18th century, not many travelers make the detour to explore this picturesque township with its beautiful monsoon palace pavilions, water gardens, and 2,000 manually operated fountains. Just 35 km from Bharatpur, Deeg is anything but a tourist trap. The primary focus here is the palaces and pavilions, the water bodies and gardens, and, of course, the ruins of Suraj Mal’s mighty fortress.

This sleepy town has only recently gained attention, especially since Rajasthan Tourism initiated the Deeg Mahotsav (festival) in 2019, now an annual affair in October. Once the festivities are over, the township slips back into its slumbering pace. The 2,000 fountains, revived after decades of neglect, continue to function splendidly, gurgling delightfully in all the hues of the rainbow. Though fully operational, they are now turned on only twice a year. During the festival, guests can enjoy a variety of events, including kabaddi, a mustache competition, tug-of-war, a costume competition, a turban-tying contest, and vibrant folk dance and music performances—events that are familiar across many leading cities in Rajasthan. The Braj festival in March also showcases the splendor of Holi in the palace grounds. Deeg, however, adds a fresh flavor to all of this by simply being a laid-back, serene, and uncrowded historic destination to explore in the cooler months.

Deeg was the first capital of the Sinsinwar Hindu Jat state of Bharatpur, with Maharaja Badan Singh proclaimed as its ruler in 1722. In 1730, Maharaja Suraj Mal built the strong fortress of Deeg, which was surrounded by a moat. When Suraj Mal moved the capital to Bharatpur, Deeg became the second capital of the Bharatpur princely state.

Rich in atmosphere, this mid-18th-century summer palace complex, set in a lake fed by a canal, was the vision of Raja Suraj Mal. The fortress of Deeg, now largely in ruins, stood witness to the Raja’s bravery as he repelled Mughal and Maratha forces with great vigor, protecting this principality of the Jats. Strategically positioned between Mathura and Agra, Deeg was an enviable prize for both these enemies of the Jats. Eight years later, Raja Suraj Mal was even audacious enough to lay siege to Delhi’s Red Fort.

The black marble throne you see here was a war trophy brought by his son, Raja Jawahar Singh, after his victory over Delhi in 1764. After attacking the Mughal bastion of Agra, Jawahar Singh seized a massive marble structure, which was dismantled, numbered, and reassembled—stone by stone—within the gardens of Deeg. Another notable artifact brought back from Delhi is the exquisite white marble swing overlooking the gardens.

The palace complex, spread over 14 acres, remained in active use until the 1970s, after which it gradually fell into decline. Visitors can explore at leisure, admiring its architectural beauty, grandeur, and engineering marvels. Highlights include Gopal Bhavan, the palace (partially in ruins) also known as Jal Mahal, flanked by the elegant twin monsoon pavilions of Sawan and Bhadon, Gopal Sagar, Rup Sagar tank with the adjoining Keshav Bhawan— the Monsoon Palace, Hardev Bhawan, the tranquil Kusum Sarovar, Suraj Bhavan, and Nand Bhavan, the wrestling hall.

At the heart of Deeg’s charm are its stunning gardens and fountains, which have undergone a much-needed revival. This newfound attention to Deeg’s overlooked splendors has been crucial for its restoration and potential as a tourist attraction, benefiting the local economy.

Entering the multi-arched sandstone portals of Deeg Palace, you are immediately greeted by the pavilions and a water body reflecting the poetic beauty of their architecture. Deeg is a delightful blend of palace pavilions, pleasure gardens, and fountains. The overhanging jali-embellished balconies, poised above the water, conjure up visions of the noble ladies idly passing time, awaiting their lord and master’s return.

The largest of all the palaces, Gopal Bhawan—the raja’s grand residence—is flanked by the Sawan and Bhadon pavilions, with fountains below keeping them cool. Nestled by the serene Gopal Sagar, it stands out for its architectural elegance and ingenious engineering. From the back, the palace appears four stories high, while from the front, it seems to be just one. The perfection of craftsmanship in these sandstone palaces rivals that of many others in the country. Though single-storied in design, additional floors at the rear are partially or entirely submerged in water year-round, preventing the sandstone from cracking.

In the Raja’s bedroom stands a massive black granite bed, part of the war booty brought by Jawahar Singh from the imperial palaces of Delhi to Deeg. It is said to have been used in funerary rites, adding a slightly eerie touch. On display are various antiques, furnishings, chaise lounges, and even a stuffed tiger.

Suraj Bhawan, crafted entirely in marble, contrasts with Kishan Bhawan, a masterpiece in sandstone that once served as the raja’s diwan-i-khas (private audience hall). On its terrace sits a large water reservoir that once fed all the fountains in the garden—how it has withstood the weight of all that water remains a marvel. Behind Suraj Bhawan is Hardev Bhawan, surrounded by a Mughal-style Charbagh garden.

The exquisite monsoon palace pavilions of Deeg were designed for playful monsoon festivities. A unique feature of Keshav Bhawan, set alongside Rup Sagar, was a clever device that replicated the sights and sounds of a monsoon. Stone balls in the ceiling would be shifted by piped running water to create the noise of thunder, while water released from spouts above the arches would fall in sheets like rain around the open hall—ingenious!

By the tranquil Kusum Sagar stands the chhatri of Raja Suraj Mal, who was ambushed by Rohilla troops near Hindon, close to Delhi, in 1763.

The fact that Deeg remains untouched by mass tourism makes it all the more enjoyable to explore at leisure. Its peaceful allure, combined with its proximity to bustling destinations like Bharatpur, Mathura, and Agra, makes it a refreshing alternative to the usual tourist traps along this route.