The township of Anandpur Sahib in Punjab may be a small little backwater compared to its more trumpeted cousins Amritsar and Chandigarh in Punjab, but it’s very big when it comes to its spiritual quotient. Anandpur Sahib’s beauty lies in its deep-rooted Sikh culture and traditions and — the pleasures of an uncrowded tourist experience. No tourist trap, despite being second only in importance to Amritsar as a pilgrimage hub, sleepy Anandpur Sahib does attract considerable footfalls for its fantastic Holi and Baisakhi festivities.

Steeped in historic importance, Anandpur Sahib is where Tegh Bahadur and Gobind Singh, the last two Sikh gurus, used to reside. Originally known as Chak Nanki, after the Guru Tegh Bahadur’s mother, Bebe Nanki, Anandpur Sahib was founded by him on the banks of the Sutlej River back in 1665.

Following the martyrdom of Tegh Bahadur, who was beheaded under the orders of Mughal emperor Aurangzeb in Delhi, Anandpur Sahib started gathering more importance as the mantle of spiritual leadership was placed on the shoulders of his son, Gobind Singh—familiar to us as Guru Gobind Singh, the 10th Sikh Guru.

Guru Gobind Singh briefly shifted his base to the Shivalik Hills to counter the aggressions of the hill rajahs. He returned to Anandpur Sahib in 1686 after winning the Battle of Bhagani. After his successes at the battle of Naudan, he fortified the town and made it the headquarters of Sikh activities.

Hola Mohalla falls on the second day of the lunar month of Chett, which is the first month of the Nanakshahi calendar used by Sikhs. Guru Gobind Singh directly connects with the exuberant Hola Mohalla festival in Anandpur Sahib, which lures visitors in droves from home and abroad. Gobind Singh’s call to arms against the Mughal armies was a pivotal point in the history of the Sikhs. Under his fiery leadership, the Sikhs became a force to be reckoned with as they vigorously implemented the skills they had acquired in horse riding, use of weapons and strategic battle planning. What gave even more impetus to this element of martial skills in the Sikh community was the ground-breaking founding of the Khalsa Panth by Gobind Singh. This elaborate ceremony was held at Anandpur Sahib in 1699 on the day of Baisakhi, a major festival in Punjab. The ceremony was conducted in defiance of a sweeping order by Emperor Aurangzeb banning Sikhs from congregating anywhere in large numbers.

The Hola Mohalla Festival, held a day after Holi in the iconic gurudwara at Anandpur Sahib and its surrounds, offers a wonderful opportunity to enjoy a full-on showcase of the military skills of the Sikh community.

A smaller version of it can be witnessed in Amritsar’s Golden Temple, but if you want to enjoy this cultural spectacle in its full force over three days, travel ahead a couple of days before the actual festival at Anandpur Sahib. This will allow you time to soak in the rich atmospherics of the preparations by the Nihang Jatthas as they set up camp in the fields around Anandpur Sahib. You’ll also witness the arrival of the throngs who come to watch this grand affair which celebrates the components of Sikh brotherhood, fraternity, and valour.

When Guru Gobind Singh called on the Sikh community to congregate at Anandpur Sahib in great numbers, in defiance of the Mughal ban, amongst the gathering throngs was a sizable Sikh military presence.

On the day after Holi, when you arrive at Anandpur Sahib to witness the Hola Mohalla festivities, it’s like a throwback to that amazing sight. Members of the Nihang Dal arrive dressed in full military regalia. The semi-nomadic Nihangs represent the most distinctive aspect of the martial avatar of the Khalsa Panth, as also Guru Gobind Singh’s spiritual legacy. Raised to protect the Sikh faith and its gurudwaras, the community and its lands, these skilled horsemen and users of the indigenous arms used in those days, these ‘Holy Warriors’ or daredevils would strike terror in the hearts of their enemies. Of these, there were plenty apart from the Mughal forces or the warring hill rajahs. The special fighting style of the Nihang Sikhs is called shastara vidiya.

With their heads bound by their towering blue dumlas or dastar bunga— two-tiered turbans (richly adorned by five miniature historic weapons of war made of silver), and their distinctive dress code— ‘Khalsa swarupa’ cholas of varied hues of blue and their weapons, the Nihangs stand out against the crowds. But once you see them in action in the mock battles conducted at the Charan Ganga Stadium, the massive crowd watches in awe at the stunning showmanship of equestrian skills and swordplay. It’s all simply breathtaking— from riding from anything from two to four horses at a time— to displaying their incredible martial prowess with their chakram (a circular ring, used as a throwing weapon), the khanda (sword), the karud (dagger), the kirpan, and the tir (arrow), the fearless Nihangs carry the day.

Unmissable, fluttering in the breeze high above the crowds, is the triangular-shaped Nishan Sahib a Sikh standard, a befitting emblem of Sikh sacrifices and mentality. According to a Supreme Court ruling as of August 9, 2024, the cloth of the flag should be either of xanthic or of greyish blue colour and on top of the flag post, there should either be a spearhead or a Khanda (a straight dagger with convex side edges leading to slanting top edges ending in a vertex). Guru Gobind Singh flew a deep blue indigo (surmaiee) banner. Sikhs at that time referred to their flag as “Akal Dhuja” (timeless banner), or “Satguru Nishan” (True Guru's insignia). The Nishan Sahib which flies above gurudwaras all year round in all weathers, is replaced on Baisakhi Day in mid-April.

The elaborate procession led by the Nihangs travels at a stately pace from Gurudwara Sri Shaheedi Bagh Sahib to the venerable Gurudwara Takht Sri Kesgarh.

You must take in the other sights of this historic township overlooking the lazy journey of the Sutlej River here in the plains of Punjab.

The Anandpur Sahib Gurudwara was established by Guru Tegh Bahadur, in the 17th century. Apart from its spiritual importance it’s reputed for its superb architecture and lovely surrounds.

Takht Sri Keshgarh Sahib is one of the five takhts (thrones) of Sikhism. It is of enormous importance for the Sikhs, both for its historical provenance and significance as a religious site for Sikhs. It takes its name from Keshgarh Fort which once existed here but was razed to the ground during the reign of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. A spanking new gurdwara was built on the destroyed. Devotees arrive here in great numbers from all over the world to pay their respects. Also on display here are a sword belonging to Guru Gobind Singh and a Chola (robe) worn by Guru Tegh Bahadur.

Virasat-e-Khalsa (formerly the Khalsa Heritage Memorial Complex) offers insights to the events that took place in Punjab 500 years ago which resulted in the birth of Sikhism and eventually the Khalsa Panth.

The Guru Tegh Bahadur Sikh Museum is awash with exhibits and mementoes which reflect the life and teachings of Guru Tegh Bahadur, as well as the history and culture of the Sikh community. The spotlight here is also on the Guru’s personal effects, such as his weapons and documents, along with a sizable number of rare manuscripts and paintings. The recently renovated Guru Teg Bahadur Sikh Museum now features the latest technology projection system using 2D motion and animation videos, synchronised lighting and running commentary.

Anandpur Sahib the "City of Bliss' lies 45km away from Ropar and 80 km away from Chandigarh, making it quite convenient to enjoy this spectacular cultural extravaganza as part of your Holi celebrations.