Nestled at the foot of Karnataka’s Chamundi Hills, historic Mysore, or Mysuru, is richly associated with kingly pursuits and cultural splendour. The city today also immediately summons up images of the legendary silks and beautiful crafts of southern India. Strangely, a greater part of the travelling community is barely even aware of its lively culinary heritage, which demands its special niche of celebratory activities for visitors thronging its cultural hotspots.
The most thrilling way of exploring the city’s regal past is to travel on foot around its heritage spaces. Structures like the Town Hall and the Clock Tower and Statue Square are highpoints not to be missed. The Mysore Palace, ranks amongst India’s most visited living places. Though the erstwhile royals still live in, part of it is open for public viewing…and even the little that you get to see of this sumptuous regal residence is just mind-blowing.
Having visited the palace is easy then to appreciate what great patrons of the arts and crafts and festivities the Wodeyar royals were – and, also how intrinsically they are still wrapped into the city’s present-day pursuits. The traditional and very lavish Dasara Festivities, over which the palace has always presided, is an excellent example of this. Following the artisan’s trail opens up even more impressive facets of Mysore’s crafting traditions, so amply reflected in the palace. Visiting the wood inlay and stone carving communities, for example, offer highly rewarding interactions with these custodians of these intricate art forms that have been passed on from one generation to the next. Under the patronage of Wodeyars rosewood inlay work became highly developed as an art form. A visit to a silk factory is a must do to as it introduces you to the very unique Mysore silk, whose inherent qualities are its softness, extraordinary lustre, elegant drape and regal look. To protect it from fakes it has been accorded the GI tag.
A 20 mins drive from Mysore brings you to Srirangapatna, the erstwhile capital of the legendary Tipu Sultan. A visit to Tipu’s Summer Palace offers insights into the connections the ruler had with the events happening across the globe – prime examples being the American War of Independence, the French Revolution, and the Battle of Waterloo. In the fort area, the site of many lethal battles with the British are to be found historical landmarks like the famous Bailey’s dungeon and the Obelisk.
To discover the richness of Mysore’s amazing culinary traditions one has to look beyond that cup of Mysore filter coffee or the mandatory box of Mysore Pak, one takes home for family and friends. A knowledgeable hand will lead you through the many delights of home-made kaal soup and idly, naati koli curry with mudhdhe (ragi ball) with Mysuru style Maratti masala and Hanumanthu pulav that are distinct to this city. The distinctive taste that defines food here is the combination of spices used in the Mysuru region. The eat streets with their delicious aromas have many a treat to seduce the senses and satisfy hungry tummies. As the stories around food unfold you will learn that the Nanjangud banana rasa bale, is so distinct locally, it has snagged a GI tag.
The go-to discovery hub for many culinary ingredients is the 125 yr-old Devaraja Market; but the added bonus of a visits here is experience of the essence of the city, vibrant with colour, aromas and hectic activity. A wander around this historic market offers a fabulous window into the lives of the locals of Mysore. Over 8,000 to 10,000 visitors descend almost daily on this iconic market named after Raja Dodda Devaraja Wodeyar.