Just 120 km away from the historic bastion of the legendary Nawab’s of Awadh, Lucknow, lies the medieval town of Kannauj. Long before modern day aficionados hailed Kannauj as the ‘Perfume capital of India’, it was playing an important role in North India’s political journey in ancient times.

Nestled by the sacred waters of the Ganga in the state of Uttar Pradesh, Kannauj, also known as Kanyakubja. It finds reference as Mahodya in the Indian epics, the Mahabharata and the Ramayana. In Vedic times it served as the capital of the Panchala Kingdom under the rule of king Vajrayudh.

Kannauj was attached to the legendary Gupta empire which lasted from about mid-to-late 3rd century to 543 CE; it was also known as the ‘Golden Age’. By the 7th century Kannauj had snagged a big win and came into its own as the capital of the Hindu king Harshvardhan (606–647 CE) whose empire also embraced a sizable part of Northern India. The king who later converted to Mahayana Buddhism held a conclave in Kannauj in 643 CE, amongst the attendees of which was the noted Chinese scholar-traveller Xuanzang or Hiuen-Tsang.

In the 9th and 10th century it had a considerable presence of both Hindus and Buddhists which witnessed the development of many Hindu temples and Buddhist monasteries. Mahmud of Ghazni, the raider entering through the Northern Himalayan passes, devastated Kannauj during one of his plunder-and-demolish sprees in India. He did this twice. Once in 1018 and again in 1194, practically razing down to the last stone of this city, famed for its political, cultural and economic significance. Since then, till its revival as a perfume centre in recent times, Kannauj was a silent backwater, eking out a living from its centuries-old perfume industry.

Wandering around the district visitors still find ruins of old forts and palaces and untouched mud mounds which document parts of its ancient history. But of its Buddhist stupas and monasteries there lies not a trace.

Chinese traveller Huen Tsang’s travelogue contains one of the original names of Kannauj as Kusumapura — the city of flowers. Now known as the ‘Perfume Capital of India’ Kannauj received over 1.3 million tourists in 2024. What has driven this has been the allure of India’s organic attar or perfume- making tradition which dates to the times of king Harshvardhan.

The fine art of ittar making

Centric to your explorations of Kannauj is a visit, for a farm-to-bottle experience, to one of its manufacturing units which still follow the tradition of deg-bhapka or hydro-distillation to make the ittars which have a global market. You will begin the tour early in the morning at the flower farms (rose, jasmine) which are the source of this sensory experience. Later you will witness the actual process of deg-bhapka, which includes the flower sorting and artisans using traditional copper stills (degs), bamboo pipes, and clay receivers (bhapkas) to distill the essence of flowers like rose, jasmine, and marigold into pure sandalwood oil, a natural base and preservative. The perfumers of Kannauj were masters at their work which is why they served royals. They were the acclaimed alchemists of the Nawabs of Awadh, distinguished for their elegance, taste and love of all things luxurious.

Do pencil in a visit to the Fragrance & Flavour Development Centre (FFDC) in Kannauj. The library and documentation center opens up a window to the technical standards on essential oils, natural resins, aroma chemicals, and fragrances. They also arrange guided tours of the complex if asked in advance.

A step back in time

The Archaeological Museum has on display a wonderful range of Gupta-period sculptures, ancient coins, and terracotta statues. With its dioramas of the life and times of Harshvardhan it’s a great place to explore Kannauj’s past as a cultural, religious and trade hub till the 12th century as well. It even has dioramas of the attar-making process.

A bit of local sightseeing brings you to the 52 Pillar Mosque or Makhdum Jahaniya Mosque, immortalised in a painting by the Danielles in the Raj era.The haunting atmospherics of Old Fort or Jaichand Fort in Kannauj is a sad reminder of its over 2000-year-old history.

Birding at Lakh Bahosi Sanctuary

A back to nature experience awaits you, 40km away from the city, at Lakh Bahosi Sanctuary located near the twin lake villages of Lakh and Basohi in Kannauj district. With a spread of over 80 sq km, including a stretch of the Upper Ganges Canal, it is one the largest bird sanctuaries in the country. It was created in 1988 for the protection and conservation of the wetland with special emphasis to the local and migratory birds, and conservation of their natural habitat including aquatic plants and animals. The Bombay Natural History Society, Mumbai (BNHS) has also listed this Sanctuary as one of the 'Important Bird Area' sites. It’s a big draw for birders between November and March, when one can use the gazebos by the water’s edge as vantage points. A small island in the Bahosi Lake is a popular roosting place. The verdant reaches of this retreat are also home to jackal, blue bull, mongoose, fishing cat, rhesus monkeys etc.

Temple run

Baba Gauri Shankar Temple, a revered 7th-century temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and Goddess Parvati, was historically expanded by king Harshavardhan. The over 5th century-old Siddheshwarnath Temple is a huge draw for devotees. The throngs become even bigger during the Sharad Purnima or full moon celebrations held in the month of October. The Ganga aarti and purification rituals in the sacred river are mesmerising.

The Kanchi Mahakaleshwar Temple near Tirawa Ganj is a magnet for Shaivites. The temple features a humongous Shiva Linga. Also located here is Maa Annapurna Temple established in the 16th century under the name of Tripura Sundari Devi. The Goddess is the deity of nourishment and food. Its annual festivals of Navratri and Annakut are celebrated with traditional rituals and devotional songs. All year-round devotees come here to offer prayers, perform bhog rituals, and seek blessings for prosperity and happiness. Maa Annapurna is believed to remove scarcity and ensure abundance in every aspect of life.

Kannauj will spring some interesting surprises, not just about its ittar making traditions, but also with some unique vignettes of north India’s fabled multi-faceted historical and cultural offerings.