Lucknow’s fabled Tunde Kababi, ranked 12th amongst the world’s most legendary restaurants has a just recently found a new address in Delhi—India’s great epicurean destination.
Nowhere could this amazing kebab speciality restaurant find a more apt place to seduce the taste buds of die-hard non-veg foodies than Chandi Chowk— Delhi 6, better known as the Old Shehar or Purani Dilli.
Look no further for Tunde than Dawatpur, the spanking new food court in the swanky Omaxe Mall at Omaxe Chowk. Spread across 4.5 acres of land with a total built-up area of more than 10 lakh sq. ft. it receives a daily footfall of 4 - 6 lakh, which includes tourists.
Who would believe it? That Mughal Emperor Shahjehan’s bastion of Shajehanbad would become a staging post for some thrilling culinary and shopping experiences 21st century-style.
The cluster of historic sites around the modern mall with its ritzy vibe still serve as vibrant reminders of the many legends and stories of the old city.
Straddling the heritage expanses adjoining the historic Sunehri Masjid and the Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib Omaxe Mall is Insta-trending as the hip new tourist attraction in the walled city. Sunheri Masjid or the Golden Mosque is the historic spot from where Persian raider Nadir Shah ordered the plunder of the city and left it in wrack and ruin with much loss to lives and property. Gurudwara Sis Ganj Sahib was where the ninth Sikh Guru, Guru Tegh Bahadur was beheaded on 11 November 1675 by order of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. The guru’s loyalists stole in in the dark of the night and recovered the body and cremated with honours in secret. The Gurdwara Rakab Ganj Sahib marks the sacred site. The severed head of the guru was taken away by another disciple to Anandpur Sahib in great secrecy.
Not many visitors are aware that Chandni Chowk was designed by Shahjehan’s powerful daughter Princess Jahanara Begum in the 17th century. It served as a beautiful leisure space with some bazaars and a cooling central water channel where the resident nobles and palace people could unwind. A writer, poet and painter Jahanara’s sense of aesthetics was given full rein to create this splendid spot in the royal city. At the centre of this octagonal market square, located in front of the present-day Municipal Townhall, stood a serenity pool which would reflect the light on the moon…giving the chowk its very appropriate moniker’ Chandni (moonlight) Chowk (intersection). Over time the entire space, running from the Red Fort’s Lahori Gate to the Fatehpuri Masjid, came to be known as Chandni Chowk. A short distance from Fatehpuri Masjid stands the 17th century Khari Baoli, which once supplied water to the local residents. Though the stepwell has long vanished the area and its surrounds have over time transformed into Asia’s largest wholesale spice market— and a big tourist attraction.
The Dawatpur Food Court, which recently opened up with great fanfare, offers a more sanitised experience of Delhi’s legendary gourmet experiences. Standing cheek by jowl in the grand spaces of the Omaxe Mall are present-day city familiars like Haldirams, Biryani Blues, Dominos, House of Candy, Subway and many more. Not to be left behind are the Walled City’s iconic street food hubs such as Jung Bahadur Kachori, Kuremal ki Kulfi, Gaya Prasad Pranthe Wale, KDH Chaat, Kunwar ji, etc.
To make your culinary journey more easily navigable the food court is colour-coded into four distinctive areas — Sunehri Nagri, Laal Bagh, Neel Nagar, and Pannapuri. Sunehri Nagri is a hub for desserts and sweet shops. A narrow lane, the Itihaas Gali, brings you to Pannapuri, a hub for globalised chain restaurants. Pannapuri links up with Neel Nagar, which features global chain restaurants as well as Mughal options as well as two purely vegetarian chains. From here follow the small lane to Laal Bagh with its many other international restaurant chains.
Outside the elegant, airconditioned confines of the Omaxe Mall and Dawatpur Food Court, the hustle and bustle of the old city carries on regardless in its time-worn rhythms and routines. Residents and shopkeepers, vendors and visitors appear to feel that the swanky mall will merge seamlessly into the Walled City landscape once the novelty goes away. The character of Chandni Chowk is just too strong to be blown away by contemporary signposts.
Chandi Chowk, at the heart of it will always remain the ‘Old Shehar’ with its idiosyncrasies and atmospheric vibe. Its history and heritage will gather just another layer for posterity. Another brick in the wall.