‘The City of Light’ or Lord Shiva’s home on earth, Varanasi stands tall amongst the most continuously inhabited ancient cities of the world. This Kashi of the olden days was the first place where the divine light of Shiva pierced through the primordial darkness, bringing the blessedness of light to Earth. Steeped in myth and legends Kashi’s spiritual importance is further enhanced by its location by the holy Ganga. Practising Hindus yearn to die at Varanasi, for it is believed that it is in the embrace of the holy funeral pyres at its ghats and the hallowed waters of the Ganga Lord Shiva facilitate the release of the soul from the cycle of death and rebirths.
The religious moorings of Varanasi offer visitors an immense spiritual high; yet it has deep roots in the temporal world, richly reflected in its pursuits of trade and commerce, the performing arts and literature and, of course, culinary explorations. Travelling around the city visitors not only enjoy a huge learning experience, but they will also encounter the great riches of its history, architecture and religious roots. Under the layers of sweat and grime, dust and buzzing flies are polished gems, which offer immersive experiences in one of India’s primary cultural centres.
The de rigueur boat ride in the pearly dawn on the Ganga offers a reflective city with its heritage setting of bathing ghats and temples both old and new. This is the iconic Varanasi experience. It is hard to be blasé about the scene of the sun’s rays picking out the devotees blissful in prayer in the holy waters of the Ganga. There is something so simple so soul-stirring about these signature vignettes from Varanasi’s daily routines and rhythms! The evening raga of cultural delights is enhanced by the atmospheric aarti ceremony at sunset; richly imbued with symbolic importance and theatrical nuances it can be witnessed daily at the ancient Dasashwamedh Ghat, overlooking the sacred river.
Varanasi’s tryst with the cycle of death and rebirth is an integral part of its everyday pursuits; a trip to the eerie cremation grounds of Manikarnika or Harishchandra Ghat, which have witnessed the burning of the funeral pyres of Hindus for centuries, is compelling in bringing home to us what makes the city tick. The black-clothed renunciants who meditate in the cremation grounds reside in a nearby ashram of a path of tantric non-dualism, which you can also visit.
A fun way to immerse yourself in a true Banarasi experience is to board a Bajda (large boat) on the Ganga at sunset, accompanied by the sounds of soulful music and enriching tales. Amazing, soul-stirring, goose-bump moments for sure!
To be in Varanasi and not indulge in its astonishing culinary offerings. Now that would be a sin. Vegetarian the city may be, because of its Hindu religious moorings, but there are great vegetarian temptations one must give into. For some of the best street offerings Varanasi wins hands down. This sensory journey introduces you to the joys of the delicious and delectable malaiyo, tamatar chaat, malai toast, maalpuas, gol-gappas, kalakand, Banarasi paan and much more. If you want to take home a more lasting aspect of the culinary arts of the city learning how to make some iconic dishes from a local family is just the ticket! It’s also an excellent way to open up conversations and strengthen social bonds with the local inhabitants of this historic city.
The Ghats
Perch yourself along the ghats at dawn to welcome the new day. All around you, countless devotees pay obeisance to the river and to the sun. Take a boat ride along the river and get sensational views of one of the most spectacular scenes of devotional pageantry on earth. Temple bells from thousands of shrines resound in the air, as thousands of pilgrims move into the swirling waters carrying ritual brass vessels, marigold garlands and oil lamps, from 100-odd ghats. Young men do callisthenics before leaping into the waters, ancient barbers tonsure the heads of some devotees, ash-smeared sadhus with coiled ropes of hair sit in a trance, women coyly slip saree-clad into the muddy waters, watch the crowds cheer on the winners at an impromptu wrestling match… Plenty of sensational shots for you camera to devour.
You may not want to be at the macabre scenes of the burning ghats, but they are an integral symbol of the city’s ritualistic perambulations year in and year out over the centuries. But you must view the five most sacred ghats at Varanasi on your boat ride. The Asi, Dasaswanadh, Manikarnika, Panchjganga and Raj ghats are a must for all pilgrims visiting the city. They believe that those who bathe in each one consecutively, their prayers will be fulfilled.
When the rituals are complete wander down the crammed, medieval maze of lanes and by-lanes behind the ghats. Jammed with fakirs, ash-enshrouded mendicants and street urchins, shops selling the ingredients of ritual and prayers, bolts of shimmering silks and cotton fabric, temple bells and brass pots, incense and painted cows, they’ll stun your senses. Take plenty of film with you and make sure your camera works…Vishwanath gully, which leads to the Golden Temple, is supposed to be the abode of Lord Shiva, and non-Hindus are not allowed to enter. Aurangzeb ravaged the original temple, but a Maratha queen Ahilya Bai reconstructed the shrine. The solid gold plating on the towers were a gift from Maharaja Ranjit Singh. The Durga Temple was a gift of a Bengal maharani- watch out for those monkeys. The Tulsi Manas Temple, close by is engraved with scenes and verses from the Rama Charit Manas. The Ramgarh Fort, where the ex-Maharaja still has a splendid apartment, is now a huge museum.
Culture Crossword
Varanasi has always been renowned as a cultural centre and is best for taking in a concert for thumri and dadra. An important part of the city’s culture is the rich heritage of silks and brocade fabric intricately carved wooden toys and carpets.
Festivals
Be in town during Dushera and enjoy the fabulous glittering performances of the Ram Lila. It’s a ten-day extravaganza of pageants, dance, music and ritual. Bring a blanket with you to enjoy the famous Draupad Mela, which can carry on till dawn, in late February.
The famous town of Sarnath, the famous Buddhist pilgrimage centre is just 10km from Varanasi. It was the site of Buddha’s first sermon after his enlightenment.
Shopping
Benaras silks and brocades are to die for. Just cadge some dough from the folks to indulge. There are some cheaper fabrics and sarees too- not just trousseau stuff. Check out the Chowk and Godowlia areas. You’ll also find the famous pan, perfumes and walking sticks, Varanasi is famous for in the shops lining the bazaar. If you’re into Indian classical music- the Benaras sitars are the best.