Alphonso

India’s sacred spaces offer a fabulous window to its deep spiritual roots, community culture, centuries-old rituals, and customs.

VARANASI- CITY OF LIGHT

One of the most ancient continuously inhabited cities of the world since at least 1200 BCE, Varanasi has been the holiest pilgrimage or tirtha hub, amongst the seven sacred Hindu sites in India down the ages. Reigning supreme here is Lord Shiva who is said to have first pierced the primordial darkness of Earth at the beginning of time with his celestial light. It's why Varanasi is also known as the “City of Light” which nestles by the left bank of the holy Ganga. The Kashi of old, Varanasi, also known as Banaras, is where devout Hindus wish to die because it is the abiding belief that Shiva himself whispers the sacred mantra in the ear of the dying which releases them from the endless cycle of birth and rebirth (moksha) and reunites the soul with the Universe for eternity. Manikarnika Ghat is the main burning ghat, where bodies are cremated to achieve that ultimate salvation. As per ancient Hindu scriptures, the goddesses were told by Shiva that: “The city of Varanasi is my place of utmost mystery… All the evil accumulated in a thousand previous lives is destroyed for one who enters Varanasi…If he lives here, a man goes to the supreme abode of Shiva, where there is no birth, old age, or death.”

The Varanasi Riverfront is a UNESCO-acclaimed World Heritage Site. Its Universal Value is enshrined in its being one of the highest embodiments of pan-Indian religion, spirituality, and culture. The iconic sacred riverfront ghats and line-up of shrines, comprising its historic core, are an epitome of the living traditions attached.

Over 2000 temples lie scattered around the city. Chief amongst them is the Kashi Vishwanath Temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva. A boat ride at dawn reveals hundreds of devotees taking the ritual dip of purification in the sacred waters of the River Ganga, which will wash away all their sins. Bobbing along the sunlit waters of the Ganga, you sweep by its primary stepped stone embankments or ghats.

Assi Ghat, Dashashwamedh Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Panchganga Ghat, Rajendra Prasad Ghat, and Adi Keshav Ghat, the premier merit-giving ghats, are a magnet for pilgrims. Manikarnika Ghat is the main burning ghat, where bodies are cremated to achieve that ultimate salvation. In the evening devotees gather at the various ghats to witness the atmospheric aarti which pays homage to the Ganga and the deities whose shrines are scattered along the riverfront. The Dashashwamedh Ghat, close to the Vishwanath Temple, is the most crowded for its extravagant agni puja in the worship of Shiva, Ma Ganga and the Universe at large, when darkness falls on the city.

FESTIVALS

Dev Diwali

Varanasi celebrates Diwali twice each year. While traditional Diwali is celebrated on a moonless night (amavasya) Dev Diwali or ‘Diwali of the Gods’ takes place on a full moon night, 15 days later, and celebrates the arrival of the gods who come down from heaven to earth to take part in the festivities. The 84 riverfront ghats and many temples are illuminated to welcome the gods for the celebration. An unforgettable part of these celebrations is the lavish evening aarti held at the Dashashwamedh Ghat, attended by hundreds of devotees and visitors.

AMRITSAR- THE POOL OF HOLY NECTAR

Established by Guru Ram Das, Sikhism’s famous fourth guru, in 1577, Amritsar rose to become the most sanctified city in Punjab and a major trade and industrial centre under the patronage of Maharaja Ranjit Singh himself.

Spiritual and temporal fount of the world’s Sikh community, Amritsar is home to the venerable Golden Temple.it is the nucleus of all activity in the city. It came to be known as the Golden Temple when Maharaja Ranjit Singh rebuilt it after its destruction by Ahmed Shah Abdali, and decorated it with marble, copper and gold leaf. The gurdwara is located at the place where the first Sikh Guru, Nanak, visited the healing waters of a venerable tank—what we know today as the Amrit Sarovar.

Set upon a tranquil sarovar, Harmandir Sahib, as the ancient gurudwara is lovingly called, is connected by a small causeway to the Akal Takht (Throne of Timeless God), the temporal hub of Sikhism and dispenses justice. The Akal Takht was built by Guru Hargobind.

Do remove your shoes, rinse your hands and feet in the tanks and cover your head at all times before entering the main complex from the Darshini Darwaza to do the parikrama which encircles the Amrit Sarovar and the Harmandir Sahib. Devotees make the purification ritual in the sarovar and do the parikrama (circumambulatory ritual) of the shrine on the wrap around marble walkway on bare feet. The 68 sacred stations along the parikrama represent the 68 most important holy places of Hindus. The Jubbi Tree is venerated because it is from here the first high priest of the temple, Baba Buddhaja, supervised the construction of the temple 450 years ago.

The 24/7 recital by the ragis of the Gurbani, which breaks the air, is a soothing accompaniment to all the rituals in these public places. A continuous reading of the Granth Sahib takes 48 hours.

In the sanctum, the revered Guru Granth Sahib is enshrined under a gilded canopy. The Granth Sahib is not just a book of scriptures-- for the Sikhs it is a living teacher (Guru). This holy book represents all things held sacred by the Sikhs. An important part of the rituals includes kar seva or community service, even if it means volunteering to man the shoe stall at the shrine, regardless of your social standing. The free community kitchen or langar is an integral part of a gurudwaras functions.

An unmissable part of the rituals is the ceremonial putting to bed of the Guru Granth Sahib with a nightly procession to the Akal Takht and the dawn-lit return to Harmandir Sahib around 4am the next day. To attend these ceremonies is considered highly merit-giving, especially if you can give your shoulder to the palanquin which carries the holy book.

The Durgiani Temple, dating back to the 16th century is another pilgrim point for devotees of the Goddess Durga. The complex also houses the Bhairon Mandir and the Hanuman Mandir. The shrine is located close to the Haathi Gate.

FESTIVALS

Hola Mohalla

The 3-day festivities of Hola Mohalla held in the month of March by the Sikh community celebrate the martial skills of the community, introduced by Guru Gobind Singh. Mock battles, horse riding and unique traditional weapons come into play in the competitions. The most colourful aspects of this annual festival are the amazing martial feats of the Nihangs, the Sikh community’s ‘holy warriors’ and their costumes and fabulous headgear.

RAMESWARAM- VENERABLE JYOTIRLINGA

Suffused in soothing silences, the sanctum sanctorum at Arulmigu Ramanathaswamy Temple reverentially witnesses the awakening of the deity in the dawn-lit hours. The priests go around conducting the centuries-old rituals to minister to the needs of the deity, before the arrival of the stream of visitors. Far in the distance the rhythmic flow of the ocean waves is a muted voice under the ceaseless cacophony of vehicular traffic. The spanking new Pamban Bridge will soon be a bustling hub of activity as cars hurtle down the causeway to deposit the first of the visitors at the temple site at Rameswaram on Pamban Island, off mainland Tamil Nadu at the tip of the Indian peninsula.

The present structure of the shrine dates back to the 17th century. The temple is also fabled for its ornamental corridors and richly sculpted pillars.

The Arulmigu Ramanathaswamy Temple is a magnet for devotees as one of Hindu India’s 12 Jyotirlingas and four Char Dhams. It is believed that the temple is sited on the spot where Lord Rama on returning from his war with Ravana of Lanka for kidnapping Sita, prayed to Lord Shiva to absolve him of the sin he had committed of killing a Brahmin — “Brahmahatya’. Ravana, one may recall, was not only a Brahmin, he was also a great devotee of Lord Shiva.

Two versions exist for the temple site. One is that, the linga (Ramalingam) was hurriedly made from sand by Sita during the course of Lord Rama’s penitence, as Hanuman had not returned in time with the linga he was asked to bring from Mt Kailash. Enshrined in the temple sanctum are both Ramalingam and Vishwalingam, the linga with which Hanuman returned eventually, as ordained by Rama. The other version has it that it was built before he left to wage war on Ravana. It is believed that Lanka in those times was geologically connected to mainland India via the Ram Sethu Bridge.

Devotees participate in several rituals when they arrive to show their devotion to the Lord Shiva.

Lord Rama, is the seventh avatar of Vishnu in Hindu mythology. Mani Darshan is held around 4:00 - 5:00 a.m. each morning. This “Mani” is made of spatik, a precious crystal in the form of the 10-inch-high Shivling placed in front of the Ramalingam in the sanctum. Legend has it that the “Mani” is of Sheshnag, the snake on which Lord Vishnu reclines. With these rituals over one needs to proceed for the ritual purification snana.

The first of these is the Angni Theertham Snana. The ritual dip of purification takes place at the Agni Theertham beach near the eastern gate of the shrine. The next stage is taking a be purified by water from the 22 holy tanks (kund) snana. The 22 kunds, which lie scattered within the temple complex itself, are said to represent the arrows of Rama. The waters of these wells are believed to have healing properties. The 22 kunds— Mahalakshmi, Gayatri, Savitri, Saraswathi, Gavya, Gavyaksha, Nala, Neela, Sethumadhava, Gandhamadhava, Brahmahatya Vimochana, Shanku, Surya, Chandra, Chakra, Shiva, Sarva, Satyamrita, Gaya, Ganga, Yamuna and lastly Kodi, are manned temple staff who draw out the water in a bucket to pour over waiting devotees. Having completed the ritual dips at both these sites devotees may proceed to the main temple for darshan of the deity.

The Rudrabhishekam, is a rich and moving ceremony devoted to Lord Shiva. Milk, honey, ghee, and holy water are given as offerings to the sacred lingam amidst chanting of Vedic hymns and rudram mantras. It is believed to cleanse negative energies, remove obstacles, and invoke blessings for peace, prosperity, and spiritual upliftment. This is ritually performed every day from 7 am to 1 pm and from 3 pm to 7 pm.

Pitru Tharpanam rituals are also conducted for one’s ancestors at Rameswaram. Scattered across the island are temples raised to several other Hindu deities, which attract devotees.

FESTIVALS

The annual Maha Shivaratri and Navratri festivities draw lakhs of devotees and visitors to the temple.

SHIRDI-SAINTLY HUB

Quietly, devotees and priests move around the temple site, deeply immersed in the centuries- old rituals and devotional prayers. Located in a verdant expanse of Maharashtra the unhurried town of Shirdi is home to the temple of Sai Baba.

The focal point of this veneration is the ornamental marble statue of an enthroned Sai Baba enshrined in the tranquil Samadhi Mandir. Adjoining it lies the tomb in which the saint’s mortal remains are interred. In front of the Samadhi stand two highly decorative silver pillars. A short distance away is the Dwarkamai, an abandoned mosque which served as the abode of the living Sai Baba. The tree-lined Lendi Garden was created and nourished by Sai Baba himself. Gurusthan marks the spot where Sai Baba was first spotted meditating under a neem tree as a 16-year-old youth. This tree is the first stop of a pilgrim in Shirdi.

Just 85km away from Ahmednagar Shirdi reveals a unique journey of a humble devotee of truthfulness and deep spirituality who came to be revered as a saint by his admirers who can be found scattered all over the world.

Mystery still shrouds the early years of Sai Baba. It is believed he was born into a Hindu Brahmin family and eventually came to be adopted by a Sufi mendicant. In his later years he said he had been a disciple of a Hindu guru. It was in 1825 that his travels brought him to the little village of Shridi where he remained for a couple of years and then disappeared for a year.

Initially, the young ascetic was rejected by the villagers of Shirdi who called him a madman. After three years went away for about a year. Not much was known about Sai Baba during that period. Some information which did filter in claimed that he met many saints, fakirs and even worked as a weaver. It was in 1858 that he mysteriously returned to Shirdi and continued to live till his passing in 1918.

Over time, the villagers came to accept him and his devotional ways. Gradually, he built up a following of both Hindu and Muslim devotees who were admiring of his teachings and some miraculous deeds related to the granting of some wishes and healing the sick. Though he wore a Muslim cap and kept a sacred fire burning all the time according to some Sufi rituals, he was knowledgeable about ancient Hindu scriptures such as the Gita and the Puranas.

From the sacred fire he would give devotees ash (vibhuti), considered to have healing properties. Sai Baba rejected the rigidity of the more formal aspects of both Islam and Hinduism. Baba stated that his mission is to “Give Blessings” without discrimination to all. What distinguishes his popularity was that he was beyond distinctions of religion, caste or creed. He embodied all religions and preached the Universal religion of Love.

Shirdi is a secular place where all religions are treated as one and a belief in the power of faith patience takes precedence above all. During his contemplation (Samadhi) services, Shree Saibaba had consoled his devotees with these words - "After I take Samadhi, my bones will speak from the grave, and people will throng here."

The Shree Saibaba Sansthan Trust, Shirdi, is the authorized body to control and manage the day-to-day activities at the Shree Saibaba Samadhi Temple and provides various facilities like accommodation, meals (Free), refreshments etc.

FESTIVALS

Thursday Palkhi

From 1910 to 1918, Sai Baba slept in Chavadi every alternate night. A procession from Dwarkamai to Chavadi was taken out every time Baba went to live in Chavadi. To honor this tradition, every Thursday between 7:30 PM to 9:30 PM, a palki or procession is carried out. This procession starts from Samadhi Temple, goes to Dwarkamai, proceeds to Chavadi and then returns to the Sai Mandir. A photo of the Sai, the sacred staff, paduka, the priest and members of Tatya Kote’s family are a part of the palki procession. Devotees are present and pay homage along the entire route of the palki.

Vijayadashami or Shri Samadhi Anniversary

Dussehra is also the day when Sai Baba attained Mahasamadhi. It was on Vijayadashmi in 1918 that Sai Baba left the earthly world and crossed over to the next realm. Shri Samadhi Anniversary is one of the most important festivals celebrated in Shirdi. The Sai Temple is open throughout the night during the festival as thousands of devotees make way for blessings. The festivities spread over three days, with various religious activities lined up for each day. The bathing of the statue, carrying out the palki and meals are planned across the three days.

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