Skills which in themselves become an ‘art form’ to give thousands of people pleasure are truly to be treasured.
Goa has long been the Mecca for the global travelling community, largely for its stunning beaches, sunny climes and hospitable people. But for us, in this instance, it’s the ‘people’ which take priority. Their generosity of spirit is not only reflected in spoiling guests, it's richly evidenced also in their artistic expressions. For a unique out-of-the-box experience, we should delve deep into the skills required to make that iconic native brew, Feni, quaffed down by the glassfuls by tourists. Another delight-giving immersive experience which draws us is the less-trumpeted endeavours of landscape artist Daniel D’Souza.
Frolicsome Feni
Back in the day when the Portuguese came to gobble up lands in peninsula India in the guise of traders, they slayed us further with the pleasures of their tree nut "Cashew", known as the ‘wondernut’ of the world. It’s said that cashew nut (Anacardium occidentale) trees took to the soil of coastal India like ducks to water, with even greater happiness than they did on Portuguese soil when introduced by them between 1563 and 1578. It came to Goa through the Portuguese settlement here between 1560 and 1565.
It’s a mysterious nut this cashew nut. If you look closely at a cashew tree the kidney-shaped nut clings to the underbelly of the cashew apple which looks like a fruit but is the enlarged stem of the cashew tree. Strange as it may appear, given its Portuguese antecedents, India was the first country to send off cashew kernels to global markets and was also the one who pioneered cashew processing as an industry. Under India’s skilled ministrations, cashew nuts could be sun-dried, drum-roasted, oil bath- roasted and steamed for different end results. Processing is the key to drawing out a range of pleasure-giving treasures from this exotic nut. And Feni-making, in Goa, is one of the most beloved.
Feni is somewhat of a heady heritage beverage in Goa now. It even has a GI Tag. To learn more about this favourite tipple of Goans we should find our way to the picturesque setting of Cansaulim and drop into Cazulo Fazenda, much reputed for the premium family-owned Feni brand known as Cazulo Feni. This is Goa’s only Feni cellar and here you will learn all about this exotic transformation from kernel to a prized liquor under the skilled hands of the workers. Their expertise in Feni making has resulted in three expressions –Cashew, Palm, and Dukshiri–all of which marry very well with local and foreign dishes.
The walk-through from the cashew orchard, through the traditional distillery terminates with a tasting session and a meal in the outdoors. As visitors, you’ll even get to sample two of their several rare traditional expressions from their feni vault, which has treasured flavours such as Cardamom, Cumin, and Orange amongst others.
Traditionally de-seeded cashew apples were dropped into a basin-shaped crushing area known as ‘colmi’. The stomping of the cashews helped release the juice, pretty much like what one does with grapes for wine-making! The stomping process has gotten a trifle more sophisticated by being replaced by a press known as ‘pinjre’ or cage.
The Art of Going Green
Another journey across Goa, to Assagao, takes us to a place not many visitors are even aware of. This is the spot to be if you aren’t much of a beach bum but want to soak in the sunshine and healing air of this coastal resort. This is truly a rare, very private experience at the home of Goa’s leading landscape designer Daniel D’Souza, who has been over the past 28-odd years consulting and designing gardens in Goa. It is indeed a privilege to be here as Daniel is sharing his private garden with visitors after years— and what an experience it is you’ll discover. It’s even more special as it's an uncrowded verdant space which allows you to relax and dwell not only on Nature but also on the spirit of a creative mind which has blended so many factors to summon up this tranquil haven. It would be easy to spend hours mulling over the rare and beautiful species of orchids, the unique installations of rare bonsai, and stone artefacts sourced from all over Goa. Daniel, not many know, has been a pioneer in introducing bonsai art to Goa.
Who knows---you might even get inspired to become a bonsai artist yourself! You will also delight in the fact that he pays special attention to many details including growing trees and plants that share their colours and scents with us and attract birds and butterflies to this slice of ‘green Goa’.
This is just a small sampling of the hidden gems of Goa which you can enjoy with your family and friends. It offers a delightful engagement with local talent and the allurements of Goa's creative explosions. With a bit of homework and the help of savvy outfitters, you can unearth many such hidden treasures and pleasures each time you return.