Jai Singh II, the wonder boy who rose to become Maharajah of Rajasthan’s Kachhwaha clan in the 1700s was clearly a ruler of many parts. When Maharaja Swai Jai Singh II decided to build Jaipur as his new capital, to replace the old family bastion of Amer, his approach to it all smacked of a very futuristic outlook to what he aimed to achieve as a ruler.
His Bengali architect, the legendary Vidhyadhar Chakravorty, had a very clear direction that the new city would be planned in a manner in which it would grow and flourish very quickly. To do that it was vital that the twin engines of commerce and creativity were given a dedicated place in the scheme of things in the Masterplan. To propel this thinking forward it was imperative that the new capital become a big attraction for the trade and business community as well as artisans of every hue to up stakes from Amer and shift to Jaipur. There were houses, shops and work areas that had been set aside in the grid system which split the city into nine blocks (chowkries), featured wide and straight streets, and was walled around from all sides.
As you wander around in the UNESCO-acclaimed Walled City, you’ll find this plan is well entrenched in the cityscape to this day. This makes it a real delight as a shopping experience for the traveller as one can get to see potters and stone carvers, metal workers and sculptors and textile craftsmen putting their ancestral skills and wares on display. The jewellers can be found stationed in the dedicated space called Johari Bazaar or jewellers’ market.
The royals and the nobility of Jaipur were great patrons of the jewellers who flourished pace in the ages to come since the city was first established. Though diamonds have never been mined around the city, it has been known for some of the most exquisite jewels in diamonds and coloured gemstones of which it had a steady supply. Jai Singh II encouraged gemstone cutters and jewellery makers from traditional centres such as Agra, Delhi and Varanasi to settle in the city. By the time the 19th century rolled around Jaipur was importing emeralds from Columbia and rubies from Burma to adorn its maharajas and maharanis. Over time, pearls too were undergoing some exceptional workmanship in the hands of accomplished artisans who were highly skilled in carving, bead-making, stringing, manufacture of objets d’art and fine jewellery.
A tour of the city will surely be incomplete without a visit to a couple of high-end jewellers who pride themselves on the ongoing patronage of the royals and high society.
Gem Palace on MI Road is now helmed by the ninth generation of the Kasliwal family. Back in the day Gem Palace was appointed as the official supplier of jewellery to the Vicereine of India, the Marchioness of Linlithgow. If you could peek into the family archives you would discover beautifully preserved hand-drawn sketches of jewellery designs created by family members down the ages. , has longstanding renown for kundan-style jewellery, featuring uncut Golconda diamonds created for maharajas. Pioneers in minakari work and superb craftsmanship of natural diamonds and gems, Gem Palace has been the go-to hotspot for its stellar quality of jewellery in both traditional and contemporary designs. Other top-notch veterans of the jewel craft in the city are Surana Jewellers who have been serving royalty from the 1700s, and Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers, goldsmiths to some maharajas from as many years.
Jaipur has long been established as one of the world’s foremost gem cutting and polishing hubs. Diamonds and emeralds have been the mainstay of this activity to this day in this city reputed to be the largest stone-cutting centre in the world.
Another exciting addition to the Jaipur jewellers portfolio was the introduction of the delicate jewel craft of minakari (enameling on precious metals). Mirza Raja Man Singh I is said to have brought in artisans from Persia to Jaipur. The city is famed for its red mina work as opposed to Varanasi’s fine pink minakari traditions. Jaipur, to a large degree, still follows the making process in its original form. Explore the Gopalji ka Raasta and Haldiyon ka Raasta, just off Johari Bazaar, to watch meenakari artisans, gem-cutters and polishers display their extraordinary generational skills. Sign up for a customised tour for a deep dive into this fascinating artisanal tradition in one of Rajasthan’s most vibrant destinations.
While the temptation to buy gemstones and jewellery in Jaipur can be quite strong, it's best you do so under the guidance of a local friend or acquaintance familiar with this terrain not to become a victim of scam.
A round of some of the city museums dedicated to the jewellers’ craft should definitely be on the cards. These rich repositories of the history and heritage of Jaipur’s superb jewellery traditions offer an inspirational journey in the city’s corridors of creativity.
The Museum of Gems and Jewellery, located close to the Albert Hall is the living inspiration of some Indian jewellers from New York and traders from Jaipur itself. A trip to this ‘knowledge centre for gems and jewellery’ is a delightful eye opener on many aspects of the sourcing of gemstones --- to the craft of jewellery. On display are gemstones still in their rough form as opposed to those that have been cut and polished to an exquisite sheen. Amongst the 60 odd sections in the museum is the superb “Navgrahas“ nine planets section with its “Navratan” wall with nine idols with nine stones representing the nine planets. On display too are Jaipur’s varied jewellery traditions such as the Kundan-minakari work, apart from French enamel work, Victoria-era pieces and the thewa jewellery from Rajasthan city of Pratapgarh.
A real treat in store is the personal collection, of 87-year-old New York-based jeweller Dr Rajnikath Shah, which resides in Khazana Mahal, a restored two-hundred years-old haveli known as ‘Cheeta ki Haudi Barood Khana’ located opposite Jal Mahal. Over 2000 pieces of real and rare gemstones and jewellery across 50+ different types and categories are on display here. Pieces of note are the world’s largest finger ring with 111 kg of Ashtadhatu and semi-precious stones, the statue of Lord Surya carved from a natural ruby from Coorg, a piece of a real shooting star, and a shark tooth transformed into a diamond.
If silver jewellery is your thing, look no further than the superb collection sourced over 40-odd years at the Amrapali Museum. This window to India’s astonishing regional ornamentation, is the abiding passion of college mates Rajiv Arora and Rajesh Ajmera, founders of the luxury brand – Amrapali Jewels. Unmissable amongst this sumptuous display is the 12-foot-long silver chariot crafted in Gujarat, the kundan work from artisans in the ateliers of Bikaner, Punjab and Delhi; and the superb Minakari from Varanasi, Jaipur and Lucknow.
The allure of Jaipur’s jewellery traditions is hard to shake off so don’t be surprised when you are next in the city you find yourself veering off to the Gopalji ka Raasta and Haldiyon ka Raasta or one of the museums to plunge even deeper into this fabulous world of jewel craft.