The one ethnic community of India that has always piqued our interest is the Nagas, who reside in the northeastern state of Nagaland. In the first instance, many of us have been aware of their martial prowess, legend as headhunters, fearless warriors, and reclusive nature.
For travellers, the annual Hornbill Festival serves as a fantastic window to this incredible world of the proud and brave Nagas. Just 20km from the state capital of Kohima, stands the Kisama Heritage Complex which hosts the festivities that showcase the rich and vibrant culture of the Naga community. It is an astonishing platform for promoting inter-tribal interactions and plays a pivotal role in keeping alive the cultural heritage of the Naga people— comprising 17 major tribes along with other sub-tribes. The beauty of it lies in that each Naga citizen is an equal stakeholder of the festival.
Culturerama
Peeling back the layered, history, heritage and culture of this unique community has been one of the most rewarding experiences for travellers and culture buffs. Distinctive for hailing from Indo-Mongoloid stock the term ‘Naga’ has been ascribed to many tribal communities in the North East. But the primary ethnic groups amongst the Naga tribes of Nagaland are the Konyaks (the largest tribe), the Aos, Tangkhuls, Semas, Angamis and the Rengmas. What’s even more interesting for us is that each of them has their individual identity when it comes to social customs, language, food habits, entertainment, festivals, sports etc. Did you know that Nagaland has such a rich linguistic tradition, there are as many languages as there are tribes, each exclusive to itself? In order to create a common ground for communication in such a situation English has come to serve as the State language while Nagamese, a kind of pidgin Assamese, has become the common lingua.
Were you aware that Angami people were way ahead of the times? Khonoma with its lovely terraced farmlands, the first ‘heritage village’ identified as Asia’s first ‘green’ village’ because of their native sustainable living practices; it is one of India’s top 50 tourist destinations.
Let the festivities begin
The year 2024 was a celebration of the Silver Jubilee of the Hornbill Festival. This 10-day annual state festival, which kicks off at the beginning of December each year, is a jubilant celebration communicated through the kaleidoscopic hues of their fantastic costumes, headgear and jewellery, the cuisine, the stunning dances, the traditional songs and musical compositions, the mock acts of war and unique indigenous games— the beautiful crafts such as the gorgeous handwoven textiles and shawls— and lots more.
The Hornbill Festival is a space where ancient and contemporary, local and global meet and create something magnificent. It is an embodiment of the spirit of the Naga way of life, its vibrant culture and traditions, as described by Chief Minister, Neiphiu Rio.
The festivities offer a rare opportunity to mingle with the locals, chat with vendors and artisans, admire the fabulous costumes at close quarters and explore many aspects of its indigenous culture.
An unmissable part of the festival are structures replicating the original Naga youth dormitories called morungs which are decorated with their cultural artefacts. These are an exceptional form of articulating the cultural identities, histories and social values representative of the community in all its diverse forms. Each tribe is represented in these morungs, where the locals will prepare a dish from the household kitchen for guests to enjoy. You also get to witness their distinctive way of life in their energetic folk dances and songs, costumes, games etc.
From the multi-hued spears and days adorned with dyed goat hair, to the fantastic woven bamboo headgear of the men folk ornamented with boar's teeth and hornbill's feathers to the elephant tusk arm clasps— it’s all quite surreal. Back in the day, all these had to be earned through acts of bravery!
Unique culinary experiences can be enjoyed at the festival. Favourite Naga dishes include items such as chicken, pork, fish etc. You might get to sample dishes such as smoked meat, fish, stews and stir-fried bamboo shoots etc.
You can shop for traditional art, handicrafts, herbal medicines and paintings, jewellery, daos etc; but an unmissable buy is a Naga handwoven Naga shawl. Steeped in symbolism these are distinct to each community and even an individual in terms of patterns and motifs.
The festival also hosts a wonderful range of events like exhibitions, fashion shows, and competitions such as Naga wrestling, firemaking, archery and even a Naga chilli eating contest!
Permits
Both domestic and international travellers must obtain an Inner Line Permit to travel to Nagaland. One can apply for the Permit online through the official website or in person.